From Ouarzazate by Zagora to M’hamid |
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Click to see the map (© Berndtson & Berndtson) |
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Geography and landscape High Atlas, enjoying a spectacular vista dotted with colourful Berber villages, towards the lush green palm groves of the inhabited Draa Valley, and continuing further on until reaching the dry arid Sahara desert and finally, if fortunate enough to continue just another 60 km with a 4 wheel drive, or if you prefer via camel, to reach the sacred oasis and then on to your final destination—the magnificent Chegega dunes whose summits reach 300 meters . There, nothing interrupts your view of the rolling dunes, and once the sun sets you will experience a sense of timelessness in the still, silent desert, unchanged since caravans loaded with spices, gold and indigo crossed long ago. Several nomads still live in tents taking care of their livestock (sheep, goats, and camels) amidst this sparse Hamada (meaning stony ground), forerunner of the desert. |
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Climate The Sahara has one of the harshest climates in the world. The desiccating and dust-laden winds are sometimes felt north and south of the desert, where they are variously known as sirocco , khamsin , simoom , and harmattan . During the summer: daytime temperatures are high, with records reaching 45°C to 50 °C . During the winter: warm during the day however freezing temperatures are not uncommon at night from December to February. Rainfall is sparse, with an average annual total of less than 5 in . ( 12.7 cm ); rainfall is usually torrential when it occurs, often after long dry periods that sometimes last for years. Sandstorms may happen throughout the year, and if you are lucky enough to experience the “ Ajaj ” (fierce sand carrying winds) you will never forget it. | |
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Customs Music and dance play a large part in Moroccan culture and are very much alive in desert localities. Under the starlit sky, rhythmic percussions accompany babies from birth on. Djembes , Darborkas and other drums provide a colourful backup to desert songs and sometimes may even tempt you to join in. From early childhood, traditional music becomes a mainstay and many young adults spend their nights sipping mint tea, chatting and singing amongst themselves, as their songs take on their own special resonance under the celestial sky. Traditional wear is still favoured among the locals. Women are dressed in a “ Malhfa ”, a coloured fabric covering them from head to toe. Men wear their “ Djellaba ” in winter and their “ Gandoura ” during the summer. They are protected from the sun, wind, and sand by their famous blue “ Chèche” (a turban that can also can be black or white), which performs many functions but mostly enhances the mysterious charm of the desert man. The Moroccan dish of choice is tagine , a stew slow-cooked over charcoal in an earthenware dish with a distinctive conical lid. Spiced by local products to varying degrees, there are several versions: lamb with almonds, chicken with olives or sometimes fish with vegetables. You may also get kefta --meatballs--cooked tagine -style. Couscous is another favourite meal. |
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Crafts Crafts are another staple of Morocco . Its maroquinerie (leatherwork) has been a highly prized item among the cargo of traders since the 16th Century. An equally rich heritage lives on in the production of carpets, pottery, jewellery, brassware, and woodwork . These trades ensure a steady income for much of the rural population. Tamgroute potteries are famous for their remarkable green glaze. By visiting their workshops and kilns you can get a good idea of their technique. Berber creations include agate, turquoise or Mauritian stone inlaid silver jewellery. One cannot visit Morocco without noticing their fantastic display of rugs. While remarkably diverse, Moroccan flatwoven and knotted pile rugs are almost without exception bold in colour and lively in pattern. Designs are made up of geometric motifs arranged in seemingly endless variations. Each tribe has its own distinct repertoire of designs and colours, each significant to the ceremonial and day-to-day life of the group. These same patterns can be seen in the art forms relating to other areas of tribal life, such as in ceramics, architectural decoration, and tattoos worn by Berber women. Although a weaver draws from the vocabulary of designs particular to her tribe, she works at her loom without a diagram or pattern to guide her. As a result, each rug is a unique creation, a celebration both of her tribal identity and her own artistic imagination. |
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